Malaysia: Asia’s Heart and Soul
By Leona June Christensen
Photography by Eric Fairchild
“Allaabu Akbar” (Allah is Most Great). “Ash’hadu an laa ilaaha illallaah” (I bear witness that there is no god but Allah). I was awakened at dawn (5:45 a.m.), not by the strident din of an alarm clock, but by the soothing melody of a male voice that filtered through the walls of Hotel Maya. I had been dreaming that I was home in Naples, California, but the recitation of the compulsory Muslim prayer restored me to the reality of my arrival in Malaysia.
It was my first overseas voyage, and I did not know what to expect. Nothing I read prepared me for the delights of this tropical paradise. The streets were immaculate, I always felt safe, and everyone was friendly and spoke English.
That’s what struck me the most: the ubiquitous courtesy. Instead of honking their car horns, drivers lean out their windows to politely ask pedestrians and other drivers to move out of their way. In the ten days I spent in Malaysia and its islands, I heard only two car horns.
Before my visit, I thought geography was the reason Malaysia is described as the heart of Asia. Shortly after arriving, however, I realized that this phrase not only referred to the country’s location, but also to the good nature of its people. Although officially a Muslim country, there is a potpourri of different nationalities and religious faiths: Malay, Chinese, and Indian; Christian, Buddhist, and Hindu; all living together in peace and forbearance. This diversity means that there is something for everyone, and regardless of origin or belief, you will feel at home.
“What we [Malaysia] can sell to Americans is the uniqueness of Malaysia, [its] multiculture, multilanguage, multireligion,” said Prime Minister Dato’ Seri Abdullah Bin Hj. Ahmad Badawi. “And because of all this diversity and our uniqueness, we can sell. We are a natural country, everything you see. We are not man-made. We are not selling something artificial. We do not build things we do not have. They [other countries] will try to build rain forests. They will try to [manufacture] snow. We don’t. The only thing we do not have is snow in Kuala Lumpur. I believe Americans will love [Malaysia], our food, our shopping, our dive sites, our shorelines, and our polite people. The longer you stay in Malaysia, [the more] you will want to make it your second home.”
You can taste the Malaysian people’s passion for food in their cuisine. The spicy fare is a fusion of Chinese, Malay, Thai, and Muslim palates, and is a culinary rapture. It would take over a year to begin to explore the list of delicious hot items. The seafood is superb, and for its own sake well worth the trip.
With its rich cultural and ethnic diversity, the nation’s capitol Kuala Lumpur—or KL, as it is affectionately known—reminded me of urban Southern California. The metropolitan landscape consists of abundant palm trees, skyscrapers, bustling immaculate streets, and shopping centers. Yet I only had to pass one of the scores of mosques or Buddhist and Hindu temples to realize that I was across the ocean.
Each day was unpredictable, promising an adventure. During my ten days in Malaysia, I had only one guarantee: the tropical climate inevitably brings a daily rain shower and high humidity. Within days, I abandoned the clothes I packed for vibrant sarongs. (If you come to Malaysia, make sure to slather on waterproof sunscreen and mosquito repellent). The generous exchange rate, 3.2 ringgits (Malaysia dollar) for one U.S. dollar means that your shopping budget extends further, so you may want to bring an empty suitcase for your treasures.
KL’s premier landmark, the Petronas Twin Towers, is a Malaysian landmark. Designed by Cesar Pelli & Associates and built between 1992 and 1998 for $1.6 billion, the 88-story skyscraper is the country’s status symbol and icon of distinctive style. The slick glass shafts rise above the city skyline and are illuminated after dark. A sky bridge on the 41st and 42nd floors stretching 192 feet across from 558 feet above street level joins the towers. At the crown is an eight-sided star with rounded nodules, a universal symbol in Islamic and Asian religions. The towers are a preferential emblem for souvenirs like miniature pewter replicas, magnets, and postcards.
In Kuala Lumpur, I stayed at the Hotel Maya, a five-star “boutique urban resort” situated at the foot of the towers. Bamboo paneling and a pathway over flowing water hallmark the contemporary interior. My jet lag was nonexistent after a butler came to my room to draw an aromatherapy bath with a choice of four different oils, and to serve me fresh fruit and herbal tea.
After exploring Kuala Lumpur, it was off to the island of Penang. After you are greeted with an orchid and fresh tropical fruit juice at the Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, you won’t want to leave, especially after soaking in another aromatherapy bath, complete with candlelight and rose petals, in your private tub on the balcony that overlooks the emerald Andaman Sea. The resort sits on 30 lush acres with towering rain trees, the perfect place for a romantic getaway or honeymoon. The cuisine is extraordinary at the Spice Market Café.
When you stay in KL, check out the resort’s sister hotel, the Putrajaya Shangri-La. The sublime 118 guest rooms and suites coexist in harmony with palm, bamboo, aromatic herbs, and water plants. The view is nothing short of spectacular, and the attentiveness of the spa staff is unrivaled.
If you can succeed in tearing yourself away from the resort’s amenities, try exploring the Penang Butterfly Farm, the world’s first tropical butterfly sanctuary. It’s a living museum with a rainbow of more than 4,000 butterflies of 120 different species, as well as an array of insects and reptiles on display behind glass. The butterflies flit about their favorite flowers and nectar plants. It is commonplace for butterflies to land on the head or shoulders of the visitors.
For an aromatic treat, visit Penang’s Tropical Spice Garden located within a hidden enclave amidst streams and waterfalls. During a guided tour, you smell and taste some of the more than 500 exotic varieties of plants that are spread across eight acres of natural tropical landscape.
The island of Langkawi reminded me of home in California. The weather is much cooler than the other places I visited. The golden sand beachfront Frangipani Langkawi Resort and Spa comprises single-dwelling bungalows featuring a semi-outdoor rainforest shower. The ecoresort is committed to safeguarding the environment, and recycles as much as possible. The resort’s restaurant serves fruits and vegetables grown in their gardens. While you are there, make sure to have a massage on the beach. You can also rent Jet Skis or a fishing boat to explore the crystal-clear sea.
For those who live in a concrete jungle, Malaysia is a refreshing change of pace. Almost half the country is forested, for a total of approximately 37 million acres. It appears as though there are trees on top of trees. Every imaginable variety of flora and fauna is everywhere. Being outdoors anywhere is like strolling through a manicured garden, even in the big city. The flourishing greenery melts stress away.
Having flown economy to KL and business class on the way home, take it from me: upgrade your ticket to business or first class on Malaysia Airlines. The luxurious comfort is worth every penny and for me, the only way to fly. Scrumptious three-course meals, snacks, and beverages are served frequently.
“Malaysia Airlines is a five-star airline,” said Dato’ Abdul Rashid Khan, commercial director of Malaysia Airlines. “We’ve earned this rating since the year 2005 by Skytrax. Only five airlines in the world are rated five-star. We have a fine-dining experience. It’s as if you are in a posh restaurant in the sky, from the menu to the presentation.”
It’s a 19-hour flight to Los Angeles International Airport, so a seat that reclines into a cozy bed complete with a pillow and silky comforter is a godsend. The flight attendants, attired in traditional Malaysian kebaya for women and elegant tuxedos for men, go out of their way to ensure blissful relaxation for passengers. To pass the time, each seat is equipped with its own small television with a variety of music channels, television shows, and movies. I was almost reluctant to leave the plane when I arrived home.
The dazzling jewel of Asia’s crown, Malaysia has much to offer in the way of shopping, scenery, food and sumptuous accommodations, and the graciousness of its people. After only a short time, it will all cast a spell on you, and it will be a small step to the decision to make this tropical paradise your second home.
To learn more about Malaysia, its government, and the establishments and corporations described in this article, visit the following Web sites: tourismmalaysia.gov.my, malaysiaairlines.com, hotelmaya.com.my, and penang-hotels.com/rasasayang/index.htm.